Today there is a wide selection of perfumes, including for men.But in the Soviet Union the situation was much worse.For men, in fact, one popular and widespread product was offered – Triple cologne.It was well suited as an aftershave tonic, a compress, and an antiseptic in the treatment of wounds.And some, why hide it, took this cologne inside, as an affordable substitute for alcohol.Even “Nautilus Pompilius” mentioned this habit in his song, noting, however, that Alain Delon still prefers double bourbon.So why did the “Triple” cologne gained such fame in the USSR?
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Eau de Cologne
First of all, let’s talk about what cologne is.This term itself implies a perfume product in which a very low concentration of aromatic substances – only 1% – 5%.And the word “cologne” is of French origin, “Eau de Cologne” literally means “cologne water“.The thing is that the first product of this kind, in which alcohol was mixed with citrus essential oils, was invented just in Cologne back in 1709.The fragrant liquid quickly gained popularity in Europe, it was used by both men and women.At that time, fragrances did not have a clear gender identity.Cologne was added to the water when taking a bath, they scented rooms and fabrics, gargled the throat and treated wounds.Of course, talking about copyright in those days was unthinkable, so many manufactories began to produce Cologne water according to their own recipes, experimenting with the choice of essential oils.
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Why cologne “Triple”?
In Russia, the cologne became fashionable after 1812, while the prototype of the classic Soviet “Triple” was created in 1889 at the Moscow perfume factory of Heinrich Brocard.The origin of the name is not entirely clear.Popular legend says that the Triple cologne is called because it contains three types of essential oils: lemon, bergamot and neroli.But such a formula is far from the truth, the fact is that the original composition also includes mint, coriander, lavender and other components.
The secret of the name lies elsewhere.At the end of the 19th century, the ranking of colognes by concentration and strength was adopted in Russia.Then, in addition to triple colognes, one could meet double and ordinary ones.There were even the highest grade (quadruple) and the highest.In a single cologne in 60-degree alcohol, there should have been at least 1% of essential oils, in a double one – at least 1.5%, but already in 70-degree alcohol.Triple Cologne is a 75% alcohol with 2% essential oils.
The revolution of 1917 led to the nationalization of the Brocard factory, on the basis of which the Zamoskvoretsky Perfume and Soap Factory No. 5 arose.In 1922, the production began to be called “Novaya Zarya”, this factory immediately began to produce the popular “Triple” cologne again.The basis of the recipe was taken even before the revolution, but it was slightly modified.The Soviet perfume was supposed to be affordable and at the same time received a simplified, direct smell.
Over time, “Triple” cologne began to be produced by other cosmetic factories in the country, it quickly became a men’s skin care classic.It was believed that after shaving, the cologne should be generously poured into the palm, and then distributed over the face with vigorous claps.When evaporated, essential oils, together with alcohol, gave the skin a feeling of pleasant coolness, giving a certain cheerfulness to a man.And if the initial citrus notes evaporated almost instantly, then the lavender plume unobtrusively remained for some time.But there was no need to talk about the outstanding durability of the cologne.
In the 1970s and 1980s, Soviet perfumery introduced more sophisticated alternatives: Arbat, Mif, Sasha, but they could not shake the popularity of Triple, and besides, it remained the most affordable.Also, this cologne showed itself well in everyday life, they were treated with a headache, used for compresses, treating wounds and abrasions, and later even restored felt-tip pens and wiped household appliances.
Prohibition led Triple Cologne to be seen as an affordable and cheap substitute for alcohol.Not without poisoning, which played a negative role in the image of the product.And when foreign perfumery poured into our market, Triple was no longer able to compete with it in its natural niche.
Today, the Novaya Zarya factory continues to operate and still produces the iconic cologne.True, he received an updated name: “Triple from Napoleon.”
Yes, and the smell of cologne has changed, finally getting balance and durability.But in Soviet times, so much Triple Cologne was produced that it can still be found on sale today.And modern production by semi-underground factories does not stop.
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